victoria granof's pasta con ceci
This is a pantry dish that I make a lot. It comes from legendary food stylist Victoria Granof, who also happens to be a classically trained chef with Sicilian roots. The recipe comes from her Short Stacks volume Chickpeas and was featured on Food52 some years back and further popularized by Smitten Kitchen. Victoria’s version of this classic dish is elegant in its simplicity. Instead of stock, she uses plenty of olive oil and fried tomato paste to achieve a rich, umami flavor. She also browns the garlic, an unconventional move in Italian cooking. The final soup-stew is vaguely reminiscent of SpaghettiOs, but a million times better.
Victoria Granof’s Pasta con Ceci
Barely adapted from Short Stacks Editions Volume 17: Chickpeas by Victoria Granof via Food52.
The ingredients and method are largely unchanged. I almost always eat this with a flurry of parmesan so have included that below. Sometimes, I also add an extra clove of garlic. In my experience, this just barely feeds two adults and goes well with a simple lemony salad. (For two super hungry adults, consider doubling the recipe and storing any leftovers.)
Serves 2.
INGREDIENTS
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling (optional)
3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
3 tablespoons good tomato paste
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 1/2 cups cooked chickpeas (or one 15-ounce can, drained and rinsed)
1/2 cup uncooked ditalini pasta (or other small shape, like macaroni)
2 cups boiling water
Crushed red pepper flakes (optional), for serving
Freshly grated parmesan (optional), for serving
METHOD
In a large heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the garlic and cook, stirring until just barely browned and fragrant. Stir in the tomato paste and salt and fry for 30 seconds or so. Add the chickpeas, pasta, and boiling water. Stir to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot, lower the heat, and simmer until the pasta is cooked and most of the liquid has been absorbed, about 15 to 20 minutes. Taste and add more salt until it tastes delicious. Serve topped with freshly grated parmesan, crushed red pepper flakes, and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil, if using.